Blades vs Cavity Backs

ok ok, i bring back my 9016 tour-issued duo and you guys can fight over it

Hmmm.... I smell blood!!!!

My 2 cents worth, based on my own journey with the game so far ...

I started out with a standard GI set, Taylor Made XR08 (similar to burners i think) with pretty fat soles, perimeter weighting, large offset ... etc using a graphite shaft with Jap S flex. Started my lessons with them and used them for a couple of months, they worked well for me. Although I must confess, they started working better after I cut them down by about 0.5 inch (swing weight maintained by adding weights) cos they were really upright and I am pretty short. The heads were cast, so was not recommended to bend them.

Along the way, I got poisoned with this whole forged club thingy, so bought an old set of Tourstage V7000 irons from my friend, shortened them and got the lie adjusted. They still had offset, just less than the TMs, and they felt really soft when hitting the sweet spot. I suspect that they still had quite a fair bit of forgiveness built in, results on thin shots were not that bad, but the workability was defintely there. Good players could work it left or right, for me, it meant any errors would send it left or right. In the initial few weeks of switching, the results were painful.

I recently purchased a set of Miura cavity back irons (CB-501) which have even less offset and much thinner soles compared to the earlier 2 sets of clubs. I got them in April, and was fighting a bad pushslice, especially with the mid and longer irons (5,6,7). They were not as easy to launch, and thin shots with longer irons were short about 10-20m. With practice and going back to basics, I am very thankful that they now seem to be working and I am really starting to enjoy them.

I guess I have been making incremental steps in terms of the clubs I have been using, but even then, each step I took required quite a fair bit of practice time (and playing time) to get competent at the new set of clubs. Competent enough to stand confidently over the shot on the fairway, not just at the driving range.

Even though the change in clubs was incremental, at times it was really demoralising. Not just at the range, but on the course, whereby you really wonder how come you can't even hit a simple 130m shot to somewhere around the green.

I shudder to think what would have happened if I had jumped straight to blades from my GI clubs, or started with blades at the start. It might have been so frustrating I might have quit the game. I realise others have done it, but perhaps I would prefer an easier alternative.

I definitely have a much better swing now than when I was using my GI clubs. However, I would credit that to a good coach, regular practice and regular playing rather than the effect of the clubs.

I sometimes still carry 2 of my old GI clubs in the bag as a 3 iron and a 4 iron, cos they are easy to lauch off the deck, forgiving and really straight, especially off the tee. In perspective, I could not even get proper contact with these clubs when I started.

I know I am not a very good ball striker, because if I was, I would be able to launch a 3 iron blade off the deck the same distance as my GI club. I am working at getting there, but in the meantime, if the GI club does the same job for that distance, I can enjoy my golf and slowly work on lowering my scores (ball striking is only a part of that).

Long post, thanks to all who took the time to read it.

p.s. Birdman, 160m uphill AND elevated green? Iron my FOOT! Pull out 25 degree hybrid liao!

Wah ... Miura CB-501 ... very nice (but personally I prefer Ikasu - if i can game it)... congrats on your purchase...

Good sharing dude.

oh if you join us for the Golf Republic First Anniversary Charity Golf Tournament, you might want to join mloy's flight - another Miura gamers a.k.a another buaya ... hehehe

cannot lah ... I am still in NZ, only flying back morning of 19th, probably arrive 20th, really wish I could make it though

Hmmm ... I half recall have to give monica 4-4, but that was before she was OPEN category champion ....

Errr.....take 4-4 from her?

Hey Derek, great post.

Your journey from cavity backs to blades puts it all in perspective for those who think moving from game improvement clubs to blades with an unsound swing will force them to be a better ballstriker. You've shown it's not just a simple equipment change.

Most times, we fool ourselves, misinformation doesn't make it any better. As much as each are entitled to their own opininion, or to each their own, experience speaks volumes.

Your long contribution was most welcome. Keep 'em coming.

p.s. No 25 degree hybrid, so I'd rather settle for laying up and chipping close. Not wise to gamble on a downhill lie to an elevated green, especially with water front and (usually) deep bunkers laying in wait. Too precise a shot to pull off.

watermyforrest wrote:

Wah ... Miura CB-501 ... very nice (but personally I prefer Ikasu - if i can game it)... congrats on your purchase...

Your post interest me. Care to share why you personally prefer the ikasu over miura? Tks much in advance.

samT: (for die hard Miura fan, pls note that this is just personal feel)... comparing both (blades) that I tried, both has awesome softness when hitting the sweetspot but I found that Ikasu is more forgiving when not hitting the sweet spot (not as forgiving as cavity of course). On top of that, the recent Miura blades has "busier" looks which I personally dislike. Again... pls note that this is just my personal feel...

watermyforrest wrote:

samT: (for die hard Miura fan, pls note that this is just personal feel)... comparing both (blades) that I tried, both has awesome softness when hitting the sweetspot but I found that Ikasu is more forgiving when not hitting the sweet spot (not as forgiving as cavity of course). On top of that, the recent Miura blades has "busier" looks which I personally dislike. Again... pls note that this is just my personal feel...

watermyforest, did you try the CB-301? IMO the design is nice.

Monica, no doubt that your irons are beautiful

Birdman wrote:

Hey Derek, great post.

Your journey from cavity backs to blades puts it all in perspective for those who think moving from game improvement clubs to blades with an unsound swing will force them to be a better ballstriker.

Hi Birdman, thanks!

Just to clarify, my current Miura irons are still considered cavity backs, not pure blades, and still have a very slight progressive offset. I believe they can be considered in the same category as the AP2 and Nike Split Cavity.

I guess my journey was more like from Game Improvement Clubs to less forgiving clubs with less offset to what I guess can be considered player's cavity backs.

In all likelihood, I will be using these irons for a long time, the only change I see (if at all) will be changing the shafts if my swing becomes more efficient over time.

As for moving on to blades, probably not. My current set is probably more club than I can handle, but I just love the look, the balance and the feel and will continue to work hard to make sure I am worthy of using them.

Cheers!

WMF: Thanks. Actually if u keen to try, look for the older clubs when they were pretty purist about making blades. Just for fun, not ex also.

Yep... Agreed, I saw some nice miura giken as well but too lazy to search/bid for 2nd hand ones... And being a monthly golfer, I am happy with my game improvement Titties

There's tons of classic blades that looks lovely.

Legendary set of Mizuno TN 87s




cannot play well, at least look good!

The good thing about old clubs are hand forged.
But the problem is their loft are very weak eg. PW 49deg Vs now 45-47.
Should you want to de-loft it will affect the leading edge.

bro

any recommend for old hand forged club ?..might wanna get a blade set to try out..keke

http://www.ralphmaltby.com/system/assets/372/2010_MPF_Update.pdf

http://www.ralphmaltby.com/home

*iron ratings for 2007-2010*

Prosimmon at Gold hill plaza and My golf shop at trade hub 21 has some nice old mizuno heads.
They are not totally hand forged per se, but at least individually finished.
Joe Lum - creative golf has some Kenneth smith hand forge club too.

seebayho wrote:

The good thing about old clubs are hand forged.
But the problem is their loft are very weak eg. PW 49deg Vs now 45-47.
Should you want to de-loft it will affect the leading edge.

The weak loft can be good or bad ... distance wise take 1 club more, but at least no need to buy gap wedge.

I saw a set of clubs from 1930s the other day, the 9 iron looked like it had the loft of modern sand wedge!