Itchy to get a taylormade set.. burner XD or burner plus or R7 CGB Max???

guy... getting itchy to pamper myself with a better set.. im just a beginner and i've completed beginner lessons..
now here's my problem.. everytime im on range, my balls always went far right.. probably slice or watsoever.. no idea.. but heck care, will keep on tryin correcting my stance, grip, etc till i get it right...

can any of the set tool help out? needed 1 which is the most forgiving set? no matter watever poor swing, i can still get away with a straight shot?
- taylormade burner XD
- taylormade burner plus
- taylormade R7 CGB Max

also pls advise where can i get them here in Singapore and how much will it cost me? be it 1st hand or 2nd hand..

thx...

I'm a beginner too. My experience is to better spend the money on the golf course first. Like Executive course or Tanglin course. For a beginner, it really makes little difference. I use a R7 CGB Max and this is no better than my previous generic set, very slight difference in terms of balance. I like to ask my pro coaches to hit with my irons and both sets performed beautifully under their hands. Anyway, the last I saw the R7 was at Taylormade Adidas at The Cathay Building, Handy Road.

Let me share something cos i played or tried 2 of the sets before. They are oversize and have huge offset and large soles. Very easy to hit. A good investment. The large offset will reduce your slice by maybe a few yards as it help you sq the club face. If you are consistently hitting right 5m then it is good news.

Now the bad news. The club give you good distance and accuracy for off center hits and thus it is called forgiving. If you have huge slices or hooks which are result of poor swing, it can't help. A shank or topped or fat cannot become straight and far too. Basically it is forgiving but not a miracle

I am using the R7 CGB and R7 XR drivers and both can be tuned as Draw clubs which should compensate to some degree your fade or slice. However if yours are the result of poor swing, I dont think any club can help at all.

The CGB can be tuned (limited) as it has 3 weights or slugs behind whereas the XR has only two. I left my CGB as neutral and my XR as draw and surprisingly I could draw the ball effectively as and when I need to. Having said this, my T shots used to fade badly but with these two, I could control the shots effectively without fear of going to the right.

Hey Evo, if you interested in R7 XD set , pls see my post.

http://www.golfrepublic.org/marketplace-f8/taylor-made-r7-xd-iron-set-titanium-face-4-to-9-pw-sw-t1485.htm#30335

Have a great time golfing in the meantime. Cheers!

Mr D wrote:

Hey Evo, if you interested in R7 XD set , pls see my post.

http://www.golfrepublic.org/marketplace-f8/taylor-made-r7-xd-iron-set-titanium-face-4-to-9-pw-sw-t1485.htm#30335

Have a great time golfing in the meantime. Cheers!

hi D,.. thx for ur offer.. i'll skip..

taylormade R7 CGB Max.... this set looks stylo!!!...

roughly how much does it cost? where can i get those?

evo5555 wrote:

guy... getting itchy to pamper myself with a better set.. im just a beginner and i've completed beginner lessons..
now here's my problem.. everytime im on range, my balls always went far right.. probably slice or watsoever.. no idea.. but heck care, will keep on tryin correcting my stance, grip, etc till i get it right...

can any of the set tool help out? needed 1 which is the most forgiving set? no matter watever poor swing, i can still get away with a straight shot?
- taylormade burner XD
- taylormade burner plus
- taylormade R7 CGB Max

also pls advise where can i get them here in Singapore and how much will it cost me? be it 1st hand or 2nd hand..

thx...

My fren, as far as slices that goes 25m right of the target line is concerned, you have to fix the swing. No clubs can fix that.

any diff if we "hook" it 25 yrds? hehehhe

damm...i have been doin tht....

jaketang wrote:

any diff if we "hook" it 25 yrds? hehehhe

damm...i have been doin tht....

Hehee... 25 yrds slightly better.

Still I really think game improvement clubs and the much marketed "draw" clubs have no significant improvements for slices at all. Consumers should not be misled or confused.

The slice: It is really a swing problem with the clubface being too open at impact, usually from too much of a "fan out" back swing or a too steep a downswing or no weight shift to the leading foot or a combination of all.

The next time one is out at the range, try this drill.

Think of the toe winning the race at the downswing (even before impact) to ensure that you properly time the closing of the club face at impact, and continuing the "roll over"after impact (which is equally impt to ensure a straighter shot).

You wld be surprised how open it was before, even when you consciously try to "close" the face BEFORE impact.

Because the speed of the club at downswing happens so fast, it is quite hard to visualise "squaring" the clubface at impact consciously. Therefore I hope this drill can help those who struggle with the slice (incl me last time)

Just a quick input: for shanks, and understanding that it happens cos the hosel of the club makes contact with the ball first rather than the face, one of the common cause is because the golfer is standing too close to the ball.

Next time, try standing (but comfortably) a little further from the ball at address and swing flatter. It helps.

A good thought of how far/near is enough is to take your stance, grip your club comfortably and then, without moving your body, release your right hand of the grip.

Now let your free swinging right hand hold the grip again. It shld be naturally back to the initial position where the hand left the grip. If not, adjust your stance accordingly.

Just my 2 cents.

think end of day still due to swing....

equipment can only "assist" tht much....

jurongtiger wrote:

jaketang wrote:

any diff if we "hook" it 25 yrds? hehehhe

damm...i have been doin tht....

Hehee... 25 yrds slightly better.

Still I really think game improvement clubs and the much marketed "draw" clubs have no significant improvements for slices at all. Consumers should not be misled or confused.

The slice: It is really a swing problem with the clubface being too open at impact, usually from too much of a "fan out" back swing or a too steep a downswing or no weight shift to the leading foot or a combination of all.

The next time one is out at the range, try this drill.

Think of the toe winning the race at the downswing (even before impact) to ensure that you properly time the closing of the club face at impact, and continuing the "roll over"after impact (which is equally impt to ensure a straighter shot).

You wld be surprised how open it was before, even when you consciously try to "close" the face BEFORE impact.

Because the speed of the club at downswing happens so fast, it is quite hard to visualise "squaring" the clubface at impact consciously. Therefore I hope this drill can help those who struggle with the slice (incl me last time)

Just a quick input: for shanks, and understanding that it happens cos the hosel of the club makes contact with the ball first rather than the face, one of the common cause is because the golfer is standing too close to the ball.

Next time, try standing (but comfortably) a little further from the ball at address and swing flatter. It helps.

A good thought of how far/near is enough is to take your stance, grip your club comfortably and then, without moving your body, release your right hand of the grip.

Now let your free swinging right hand hold the grip again. It shld be naturally back to the initial position where the hand left the grip. If not, adjust your stance accordingly.

Just my 2 cents.

thx for the tip dude.. will def try out ur advise...

HH wrote:

I'm a beginner too. My experience is to better spend the money on the golf course first. Like Executive course or Tanglin course. For a beginner, it really makes little difference. I use a R7 CGB Max and this is no better than my previous generic set, very slight difference in terms of balance. I like to ask my pro coaches to hit with my irons and both sets performed beautifully under their hands. Anyway, the last I saw the R7 was at Taylormade Adidas at The Cathay Building, Handy Road.

And to add (I hope not too off topic), I think it is very good advise to spend time at the course (as well as the range, even if it is mandai 9 holes, just to get the feel of playing on grass, under the sun, with less than perfect lies (for mandai that is confirmed hehhe) and a little bit of pressure with eyes watching you.

When i first started golfing I spent the first yr going to Mandai many times cos it was accessible, cheap, relatively unpacked during weekdays, and no need advance booking, handicap etcetc. very easy, can play alone also.

And I remembered my first game, cos I was such a range rat, and "perfecting" the swing only at the range mats, playing on grass and with shadows rendered it almost impossible for me to swing at the ball, let alone hit one good one to enjoy the game. needless to say, I was very sad and embarassed.

And contrary to what people say abt Mandai being a "mickey mouse" course, I beg to defer. Eventhough the "fairways" and greens are anything like a real golf course's, playing on short courses like that still requires skill.

Next time ask those doubters how they scored at Mandai, unless they are making pars for 7/9 holes, ignore their critics.

Lastly, Mandai to me is a perfect practise ground for the short game. You can approach all tee's as if you are hitting your second shot, i.e without teeing the ball up. Perfect for gauging yardages for your irons and wedges for beginners as well.

today I went to TPY driving range; wanted to try the new Ping G15. Unfortunately no demo for the Pings i15 or G15. They had the 09 burner and R9 irons, which I demo'd.

The burner is a Game Improvement Iron, off-center hits still seem to go quite far; but I can still slice or hook these irons. So I don't think there is a club that will automagically correct a bad swing. The 09 burners felt just a little better than the R9; but it's not a totally fair comparison as the Burners were with steel shafts while the R9s were graphite shafted.

But at $1299, I think the 09 Burner (Jap spec-steel) is not a good buy; the Tour Preferred at $999 seem to be a better bargain, especially with new clubs like the Cobra S2 at $999 and S2 forged at around $1.3k